Thursday, August 21, 2008

The Evolution of the Polo Burger

I first started enjoying the Polo club 34 years ago. This coincides with the day I first learned the science of signing chits . . .”MPC Number_________; Signature_________”. Almost simultaneous to this discovery was the discovery of one of the clubs true treasures – the Polo hamburger.

The Polo hamburger circa 1974 was very different from today’s Polo burger. I assume that then it was still a continuation of the “American” style from the 50’s and 60’s - a simple, no nonsense burger, with a thick, juicy, hand-made patty, that was char-grilled the traditional way, with the grill burn pattern clearly visible. The burger was served clean – all condiments, (onions, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles) on the side. The bun was always toasted crisp on both sides, and richly buttered on the inside.

I vividly recall the outdoor grill they had back behind the Last Chukker, (near the wooden polo practice horse). I remember that at age 7, after riding lessons with “Sarge”, or Mr. Sebastian, I always looked forward to my “treat” of that “chukker burger” and milkshake (thick), at the Last Chukker.

When the lower covered courts opened in 1977, it had its own grill installed. At this time, my polo gang of 9 and 10 year olds ruled the tennis courts. We enjoyed that kitchen like it was our own, munching on toasted buttered buns and grilled cheese sandwiches. It was in this period and place that the “Palanca Burger” came to be. Named after the late Butch Palanca, a popular young member who was a regular tennis court habituĂ© but was tragically killed in a plane crash – this special burger was apparently his personal recipe. In this burger, diced onions, tomatoes, pickles, and spices were worked into the burger patty to make a very tasty patty. At that time, unlike today, each patty was hand formed by the cook out of ground beef. Today, pre-prepared patties are supplied in volume to the club. The Palanca Burger became so popular that it eventually became a part of the club menu – available not only in the covered courts, but also in the Sports Lounge and other outlets. I, together with many others were big fans of the Palanca Burger. For some reason it was taken off the menu sometime in the 90’s. Perhaps we should bring it back on the menu – it is a part of the unique Polo Club culinary tradition.

Sometime in the late 90’s the Polo Club board made the painful, (but now largely recognized as correct), decision to outsource the food and beverage function to a third party provider. It was a difficult time with waiters protesting this move and some members vehemently criticizing this decision. One of the casualties of this period was the Polo Burger. The new concessionaire’s version was a departure from what many long time aficionados were used to. The patty was wider, but flatter, and tended to crumble or break apart when eaten. The burger lost its flavor and old world charm. Gone was the old original Polo Hamburger, and there were outcries to bring back the old burger. In the club comments book in the main lobby many members, spouses, and dependents documented their complaints about the new burger and calling for the return of the old one. (It’s true, one can check the archives in the MPC library!).

Soon after that, the club management and the concessionaire made the efforts to focus on bringing back the original taste of the Polo hamburger. There were even some members and dependents officially consulted so as to achieve this mission. So today we have the famous Polo burger ruling the Polo club menu, holding it’s own as the most popular dish, by far. The club sells between 2500 to 3000 or more Polo Burgers per month.

Today’s Polo burger may not be exactly the same as the Polo burger many of us grew up with; but then it is a very good burger indeed. As with most things in life, it has evolved. Just like the club membership which used to be mostly made up of American members, today’s Polo burger, which I would describe as part US style and part Pinoy, (Burger Machine) style, reflects the change in the membership demography which is mostly Filipino today. The patty is tasty, and the condiments are always fresh. There is a light sauce already worked into the sandwich, but the right amount of additional ketchup or mayo brings out the “zing”. This is today’s Polo burger.

The Polo Club has a rich and interesting culinary tradition of its own. There are many classic dishes, that are ingrained in the food-memory part of our brains. Some of these are no longer available. Who can forget the Open Faced Sandwich? How about the Army-Navy Sandwich? One can still order the classic French Fries with Garlic, (mixed with ketchup and Knorr seasoning!), or Kropek, (also with Knorr!). But it is the Polo Burger that stands out as king of all Polo dishes.

Let's Try This Again

Ok so I'm back at this thing again. This Kuwentos Cogon has been in Ningas Cogon state for the last 10 months or so. So here is another effort to make something worthwhile, (at least for me) out of this blog thing. I made a mid year resolution to get this up and about once more so here I am. This is the first step - writing about the first step . . . . More to come soon.